San Polino presents new releases that are darker, riper and more concentrated compared to most. That's definitely true of the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. This certified organic wine shows hot-vintage intensity with a touch of aromatic sweetness or jamminess that I also found in the two Brunello releases from 2018. However, the mouthfeel is bone dry, abruptly so, and even bitter. Only 1,300 bottles were made in this challenging vintage.