Marlborough has built its reputation on the shoulders of wines like these, and it stakes its success to them now. Interestingly, the region is able to produce high-quality wines at high yields (15 tonnes per hectare, as an example), which certainly explains how the regional volume of wine is achieved. Gladly, as a consumer, high yields don't seem to mean low quality in this case, meaning there's lots of it, and it's good. On the nose, this 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Reserve leads with overt thiols—passionfruit, green bean, sweet pea florals, green apples and coriander. The fruit is from Dillon's Point (in the lower Wairau), and it essentially expounds a quintessential Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and does what it says it will do—you've gotta love that. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Crushed stone and bruised tomato leaves mark the nose of the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Reserve, which this year comes from the same vineyard as the Pioneer Block 3 bottling. This offering is perhaps a bit riper and less herbaceous, with flavors of white currants and grapefruit on the medium-bodied palate. There's a bit of silkiness to the texture, and it has a long, focused finish.

Opening with some subtle sulfide/struck match and crushed stone notes over a grapefruit, gooseberry and green apple core, the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Reserve has an electrically charged palate of zingy citrus and herbal notes, plus a great backbone of acidity, finishing long and minerally.