An artisanal release of about 5,000 bottles, the Russiz Superiore 2013 Collio Rosso Riserva Degli Orzoni is a bold and brawny blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There is a lot of darkness packed within this bottle with blackberry, plum and blackcurrant. Those luscious and slightly sweet fruit flavors are followed by savory spice, tar, rum cake and a distant note of tangy spice or eucalyptus essence. The wine is textured and rich, yet the mouthfeel builds up to a solid mid-weight approach. This adds to the elegance and versatility of the final result, to be decanted next to a well-aged steak.

Marco Felluga's 2010 Collio Rosso Riserva Degli Orzoni is a Bordeaux-inspired blend from the far north of Italy. The wine opens to a darkly saturated color and thick concentration. It emits aromas of dark plum, pressed blackberry and spice. It also shows savory tones of leather, cured meat and moist tobacco. The finish is austere and rich.

The 2008 Collio Rosso Riserva degli Orzoni is an austere and muscular blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged in oak for two years. Other vintages of this wine have tasted more youthful and energetic to me upon release. The 2008 edition is slightly more evolved and mature in comparison. Black cherry, plum and baking spice color the finish. Drink: 2014-2019. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, www.dallaterra.com

The 2006 Rosso Riserva degli Orzoni Collio is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Sweet dark red fruit, grilled herbs, mocha and spices are some of the notes that flow from this classy, mid-weight red. The Riserva degli Orzoni possesses terrific balance to match its understated, classy personality. Layers of fruit build with notable intensity on the long, persistent finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

This intense Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from northeast Italy offers impressive density and complexity with pure aromas of blackberry, spice, leather and tobacco. It’s a rich, elegant wine that can be paired with game dishes.——M.L.(11/1/2010)—— 91