Although fermented and aged in large (2,600 liters) wood foudres, the 2000 Chardonnay reveals only a faint notion of vanilla in its otherwise richly fruity aromas and flavors. Long, pure, medium-bodied, and loaded with fruit, this seductive white is best drunk over the next year. Importer: Steve Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 394-0691

Readers will enjoy the creamy, ripe, medium to full-bodied, intense, honeyed 1999 Chardonnay (little new wood is utilized). Importer: Steven Berardi Selections, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 394-0691

Readers will adore the rich, dense, naked expression of honeyed custard-like tangerine-infused fruit of the 1998 Chardonnay. This offering is a medium-bodied, fruit-filled, pure effort with nicely-layered texture, and a dry finish. This white is best drunk in its exuberant, fresh, pure youth - over the next 12 months. Importer: Steve Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 394-0691

The unwooded school of Chardonnay enthusiasts will appreciate the 1997 Chardonnay. While 80% was fermented and aged in tank, and the rest in barrel with full malolactic, the wine's overall impression is one of fruit, with no evidence of wood. The tangerine, orange blossom, and ripe apple-scented nose, and exuberant, vigorously fruity personality are undeniably endearing. Pure, ripe, and tasty, it should drink well for a year. Importer: Steven Berardi, Elizabeth Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 394-0691