The 2011 Soave La Broia is an excellent wine that beautifully illustrates the deft hand of its creator. This is an oak-aged Soave that shows both softness and crispness with seamless integration, not an easy feat. The aromas are layered and complex with tiny hints of lemon curd, crushed mineral and even a touch of baked peach that emerge gently from the glass. The mouthfeel is fuller and more generous than your average Soave. Drink 2013-2018. Of the “modernist” school in Valpolicella, Roccolo Grassi delivers some of the most distinctive red, white and dessert wines in northern Italy. Importer: Artisan Wines Inc., www.artisanwinesinc.com

The 2009 Soave Vigneto La Broia emerges from the glass with hints of tangerine, honey, mint and white flowers. The flavors are quite extroverted, in keeping with the hot weather of the year, yet the wine finds its minerality and poise on the mid-palate and finish. This is a pretty, focused Soave from Roccolo Grassi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Proprietor Marco Sartori embodies all of the best qualities of Valpolicella's top artisan growers. A meticulous focus on quality means that the top wines - the Amarone and Reciotos - are only produced in the very best vintages. Sartori favors a relatively laid-back style for his Amarone. The grapes are pressed on the first day allowed by regulations, with a goal of keeping residual sugar in the 5.5-8.0-grams per liter range. Over the last few vintages Sartori has begun giving his wines 24-26 months in oak, 6 months less than before, and more time in bottle, again with the goal of maintaining as much freshness as possible. All of the new releases are highly recommended, but the 2008 Valpolicella is the under-the-radar gem in this lineup. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The 2008 Soave Vigneto La Broia could easily be mistaken for a white Burgundy in its bouquet. The La Broia is less interesting on the palate, where the wine’s early potential never seems to fully materialize. It will be interesting to see where Sartori takes the Soave as its potential seems huge, even if the 2008 doesn’t fully capture that promise. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. This is another terrific set of new releases from Roccolo Grassi and proprietor Marco Sartori, one of the emerging stars in Valpolicella. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The 2007 Soave Vigneto La Broia shows off a gorgeous, crystalline purity in this vintage. White peaches, smoke, and minerals are woven into a mid-weight frame of remarkable elegance and purity, with terrific depth, focus and energy. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Roccolo Grassi is one of Veneto’s most exciting young estates. Proprietor Marco Sartori makes elegant, perfumed wines that are easily enjoyed with minimum cellaring. Sartori favors a shorter period of drying for his Amarone fruit than is the custom at many of the region’s other estates. He is also among the producers who decided not to bottle his 2005 Amarone. The 2006 Amarone, tasted from barrel, is highly promising at this stage. Along with Stefano Campedelli of Marion, Marco Sartori is one of the most talented and inspired young producers in Valpolicella, with seemingly no ceiling as to where his passion and drive will ultimately take him. Simply put, I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

The 2006 Soave Superiore Vigneto La Broia reveals the essence of crushed rocks, minerals, white peaches and smoke in a focused, linear style that recalls Chablis. This compelling white from Veneto offers superb balance and a long, refreshing finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. This set of wines from Roccolo Grassi was one of the strongest I tasted this year in Veneto. Proprietor Marco Sartori is on a roll. Readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these gorgeous wines. The house style favors elegance and detail over sheer power, qualities these offerings all have in spades. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552