The 2006 Soave Superiore Vigneto La Broia reveals the essence of crushed rocks, minerals, white peaches and smoke in a focused, linear style that recalls Chablis. This compelling white from Veneto offers superb balance and a long, refreshing finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. This set of wines from Roccolo Grassi was one of the strongest I tasted this year in Veneto. Proprietor Marco Sartori is on a roll. Readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these gorgeous wines. The house style favors elegance and detail over sheer power, qualities these offerings all have in spades. Importers: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552