Forward, expressive plum and raspberry fruit would leap from the glass were it not reigned in by a healthy dose of oak. Brambly, tomatoey—even Bourbonlike—accents waft from the nose. Medium-bodied, this Tempranillo, Garnacha and Mazuelo blend is a natural match for tapas, paella, or gambas al ajillo. Best Buy. —D.M. ——D.T.(4/1/2003)—— 87