Slightly denser and riper than the 2001, with more of a mid-section, the 2002 Marion Vineyard is a beautifully made, medium to full-bodied, pure effort offering classic notes of charred earth, pepper, raspberries, black cherries, and currants. Importer: The Ravensvale Group (Jane Delaney), Greenwich, CT; tel. (800) 580-0052

Aged 20-24 months in used French oak, the 2001 Marion Vineyard (a blend of Grenache and Shiraz) possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of melted licorice, earth, black currants, and raspberries. Medium to full-bodied and powerful, with noticeable tannin as well as excellent depth and richness, it should drink well for 5-8 years. Importer: The Ravensvale Group (Jane Delaney), Greenwich, CT; tel. (800) 580-0052

The 1997 Marion (a blend of 58% Shiraz and 42% Grenache) is made from 136-year old Shiraz vines planted within the Adelaide city limits. It is a full-bodied, velvety-textured, saturated purple-colored wine with extraordinary fruit richness. The question mark reflects concern with a pronounced aroma of fresh manure (or is it the Burgundy cheese called epoisse?) intermixed with the extravagant levels of blackberry liqueur-like fruit. Low in acidity, full-bodied, but funky, this massive, concentrated wine tips the scales at a realistic 14.3% alcohol. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421