Reinhold Haart Haart to Heart Riesling, Mosel, Germany

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The off-dry Haart 2010 Piesporter Riesling Haart to Heart (which will be the generic cuvee offered stateside, whether or not under that name) delivers plenty of lemon, grapefruit, and pineapple vivacity, zest, and refreshment as well as impressive sheer cling. Salt, resin, and crushed stone add interest. Johannes Haart says that the balancing here involved considerable blending into the lot intended to form the heart of this “Heart” in order to hold the alcohol to 12.5%. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 2-3 years. Theo and Johannes Haart commenced harvesting already in mid-October, no later than they had last year, and were finished by month’s end. Their diversity of sites permitted a significant amount of genuine Kabinett to be picked as well as concentrated high must-weight and ennobled bottlings. De-acidification was performed with double-salt on the must, generally affecting only certain lots of an eventual cuvee. Many 2010 collections displayed – as their wines’ levels of Oechsle climbed into the stratosphere – a falling-away, if not of ultimate quality, then certainly of my confidence in it; but in the present instance, that happened only after some impressive successes had been racked up along the way. With a couple of exceptions that were entirely botrytis-free and fermented rapidly, most of this year’s collection was bottled in July and August, significantly later than usual. Incidentally, both the Haarts and Andreas Adam report that wild boar – an increasing problem throughout the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer – have reached such destructive proportions in Piesport that there is talk of trying to erect a huge fence around the entirety of this famous village’s prime acreage.”Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596- 9463