這款晚收的 2010 年的 Bacharacher Posten Spatlese halbtrocken 代表了這個貧乏年份的另一種不值一提的 Ratzenberger 酒瓶。在此款酒中，秋西葫蘆、蘋果、葡萄柚風味顯著，隱隱伴有濕石頭氣息，彌漫著令人垂涎的咸味。盡管這款 Riesling 酒體纖瘦，但是保證你喝了一口還想喝第二口。酸度和萃取物聯(lián)合，使人根本察覺不到含量極少的殘余果糖。其持久的、融合完美的余味預(yù)示著此酒至少還可以保存 10 年而依然美味。

Sassafras, grapefruit zest, and toasted almond rise from the glass of Ratzenberger 2008 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spatlese halbtrocken, which comes to the palate satisfyingly juicy and refreshing – mango adding to the luscious allure of its grapefruit – and finishes with persistent sassafras, citrus, toasted nuts, and salt. This elegant and impeccably balanced, dry-tasting Riesling can be safely and happily followed for 15-20 years. When you taste a collection like this year’s from the two Jochen Ratzenbergers, you have to wonder why their wines’ consistent quality; track record for aging; and frequently stellar performances do not make this one of the most talked-about estates in Germany. (Maybe I shouldn’t wish that on us!) In fact, they are quite well-respected at home, but I think there is a certain snobbishness that rebounds against even the best Mittelrhein Riesling because this region’s precious half-timbered villages and crenellated slopes spell “tourist country” to most German wine lovers.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644

Peaches and toasted almonds – along with an Alsace-like meld of honey and petrol – grace the nose of Ratzenberger 2007 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spatlese halbtrocken. This comes onto the palate enveloping in its creamy richness, full of stuffing, and with undertones of caramel. Yet, there is a persistent thread of fresh citrus here, too, that keeps the wine lively and somehow steers clear of sowing discord. It should be worth following for at least 8-10 years, and I have a feeling that it will be more expressive this year than it was when I tasted it last year. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. expressed delight with his 2007s, and even though I’m straining to recollect a vintage with which he wasn’t pleased, the truth is, he and his father comprise one of the most consistently high-performance teams in German viticulture, and their 2007 collection is consistently impressive. Both of the Ratzenbergers’ 2007 vintage Grosse Gewachse – in what has been fairly typical behavior – finished fermenting only in mid-August, and were immediately bottled with barely enough time to appear at the annual Berlin Presentation of Germany’s collective wines in this genreImported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.The Jochen Ratzenbergers – father and son – seldom fear letting the acidity of their Rieslings hang out, and they also craft wines that often need a couple of year’s bottle age to blossom, so my verdict on their 2004s may well require upgrading. Acid levels in the grapes stayed high, but Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. reports that the estate has never experienced such unprovoked precipitation of tartrates as this year, which significantly diminished the finished acids.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ tel 856-608-9644