The 2009 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard shows off a multitude of aromas, flavors and textures. It is a gorgeous, multi-dimensional wine endowed with weightless elegance and definition. Lemon, pastry, white flowers and crushed rocks wrap around the insistent finish. In 2009 the Ritchie is all about subtlety, elegance and finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

The medium to full-bodied 2008 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard offers scents of pineapples, pears, honeysuckle and subtle spicy oak. With good power, density and richness, it should drink nicely for 4-5 years. Owner/winemaker David Ramey produces two levels of Chardonnay – his generic appellation cuvees and his single vineyard offerings from three top sites, the Hudson, Hyde and Ritchie vineyards.Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871

The most structured and backward is the 2007 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard, which comes across as slightly tannic. Full-bodied with an earthy, rich minerality, fresh, lively poached pear, honeysuckle, and subtle smoke and tropical fruit notes, this well-delineated Chardonnay reveals laser-like clarity. It will drink well for 5+ years. A multi-tasker, David Ramey’s Healdsburg operation garnered lavish reviews for his Cabernet Sauvignons in issue #186. He also demonstrates a Midas touch with Chardonnay, while continuing to fine tune his Syrah portfolio. In addition, Ramey’s consulting business appears to be growing by leaps and bounds, and he has been a major factor in turning around the quality of a number of wineries. The 2007 Ramey Chardonnays are all strong efforts, including the three generic offerings from the Sonoma Coast, Russian River, and Carneros, and his single vineyard efforts from the Hudson, Hyde, and Ritchie vineyards. The 2008 barrel samples I saw were slightly more down-sized than the 2007s, which is not unexpected. These potentially outstanding wines were displaying fewer differences in style than I might expect.Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871