The 2004 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard exhibits wonderfully sweet brioche, bee’s wax, honeyed pineapple, and some hazelnut notes. It has crisp acidity, a rich, long, full-bodied finish, and a style that seems to beautifully transpose a European allegiance to elegance with a California predilection for ripeness. That is what is so admirable about not only the Chardonnays from Ramey but the red wines as well. Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

There’s a bracing, salty tang of the sea in this fog-cooled Chard. It has an almost Islay Scotch quality, although the pineapple, lemon sorbet and new vanilla oak flavors are distinctly varietal. Hard to exaggerate the creamy richness, the way the wine glides across the palate with racy richness. ——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 94