The second level of the portfolio begins with the 2009 Riesling 44 sourced from Clare Valley. It gives up a fragrant bouquet of acacia, lemon-lime, and melon. Crisp, mouth-filling, and vibrant, this lengthy effort will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2018. With veteran vigneron Chris Ringland now in charge of the winemaking, I can state unequivocally that this is the finest collection of Marquis Philips wines since the label was started in 2000. Nevertheless, these wines will be controversial because all but one of the non-Roogle wines is over 16% alcohol. The small but vocal crowd of Australia bashers will have a field day taking these wines to task as they do with the Mollydooker wines (which seem to sell out anyway). Ringland is concerned about flavor and balance which is what these wines are all about. Those seeking low alcohol, subtlety, and finesse should of course look elsewhere. Those who want a big mouthful of sensual pleasure should read on. The Roogle Series is meant to be a bargain-priced introduction to the Marquis Philips upper level wines. The Marquis Philips wines are predominantly sourced from McLaren Vale while the Roogle wines are multi-regional.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095

The unoaked 2008 MP Riesling 44 was sourced from a 30-year-old vineyard in Clare Valley, one of Australia’s prime GIs for dry Riesling. Light straw-colored, it delivers an expressive perfume of spring flowers, mineral, citrus, and white peach. Medium-bodied, dry, and crisp, it has the balance to evolve for 3-4 years and should drink well through 2018. R Wines is the company founded by importer and bacon baron Dan Philips and the veteran vigneron Chris Ringland. It encompasses four familiar labels, Marquis Philips (designated MP in these listings), 3 Rings, Roogle, and Bitch, along with 13 others created especially for R Wines. As is usual for master marketer Philips, the packaging is amazingly creative but, more importantly, the wines consistently over-deliver from low end to high end. The conclusion of this report contains a list of Values $20 and Under. Twenty-four R Wines are noted, many of which offer exceptional bang-for-the buck. What follows are notes are for the R Wines over $20. The rest of the Shiraz were sourced from the highly regarded 60+-year-old Ebenezer vineyards of Adrian Hoffman who is a partner in the venture.Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (805) 278-9095