Lots to admire in this wine, but it’s not without its challenges. Likeable is the restrained alcohol and pleasant, silky texture that prevents heaviness. Flavorwise, there’s a green, bell pepper streak to the riper cherries and black raspberries.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 86

The tart, light-styled 2004 Grenache reveals a hint of strawberries along with a weedy, herbal note. It is best drunk over the next year. Tel. 805-937-9801