The 2009 BRANCO, coming in at 12.5% alcohol, is all lemons and acidity at the moment, but it warms up into something far more interesting, showing a lovely, lingering finish, nice aromatics, and good depth. A bit disjointed at the moment, this should come around beautifully---hopefully in time for the summer of 2010, but as always with Soalheiro, the wine should age unusually well and it may actually improve, not just hold, thus rewarding a user who cellars it for a year or two. Drink now-2017. Notwithstanding the track record here for aging, these are the types of wines that often do not travel well and that merit some conservatism in a published drinking window. They may well last longer.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2007 BRANCO is fresh and exuberant, fruity and lovely, and simply delicious. It gives a nice counterpoint to the older wines reviewed this issue and lets the drinker see what is good about each incarnation. At the end of the day, I think most will prefer a little more freshness in these wines, that is, at least within 10 years, but each vision has something to offer. This will actually be better in a year or two, I think. Drink now-2017. While I would certainly argue that the wines tended to show better as a group and the scores started to rise with a little less age, there cannot be any question that some of the older wines were a lot more than curiosities and simply shattered regional stereotypes. Despite evidence of long drinking windows, I am still going to be a little stingy on the drinking windows of the new releases, though. Wines on the fragile side have a way of showing well at the winery but not surviving travel well. The vertical written up below was presented at the winery in the Summer of 2009. Quinta de Soalheiro is a familiar name in the Vinho Verde region, having planted its first Alvarinho vines in 1974, from which in 1982 it produced the first Alvarinho wine in Melgaco, according to the winery. They are particularly known for their ageworthy Vinho Verde—to many, a fantastic premise. Yet, the winery, only somewhat in jest, jokes that they guarantee five years. Five years in a good vintage here isn’t even an issue. To be sure, other wineries in the region have made some wines that have aged quite well. It is not as if everything falls apart in 12 months. Yet, it is hard to match this vertical in terms of ageworthiness—it is hard even to talk about it without the listener raising an eyebrow.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2005 BRANCO is bright and beautifully balanced, delicious and vibrant, in the prime of its life and likely to hold beautifully. This has a subtle richness to it that I very much liked. It has a sense of harmony to it, yet zest and vigor. Drink now-2015. While I would certainly argue that the wines tended to show better as a group and the scores started to rise with a little less age, there cannot be any question that some of the older wines were a lot more than curiosities and simply shattered regional stereotypes. Despite evidence of long drinking windows, I am still going to be a little stingy on the drinking windows of the new releases, though. Wines on the fragile side have a way of showing well at the winery but not surviving travel well. The vertical written up below was presented at the winery in the Summer of 2009. Quinta de Soalheiro is a familiar name in the Vinho Verde region, having planted its first Alvarinho vines in 1974, from which in 1982 it produced the first Alvarinho wine in Melgaco, according to the winery. They are particularly known for their ageworthy Vinho Verde—to many, a fantastic premise. Yet, the winery, only somewhat in jest, jokes that they guarantee five years. Five years in a good vintage here isn’t even an issue. To be sure, other wineries in the region have made some wines that have aged quite well. It is not as if everything falls apart in 12 months. Yet, it is hard to match this vertical in terms of ageworthiness—it is hard even to talk about it without the listener raising an eyebrow.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2001 BRANCO is powerful and focused, a bit of a wake up after the charming 2000, but its equal in overall quality. Its depth is impressive for this region, and it should have a long, productive life ahead of it. Drink now-2021. While I would certainly argue that the wines tended to show better as a group and the scores started to rise with a little less age, there cannot be any question that some of the older wines were a lot more than curiosities and simply shattered regional stereotypes. Despite evidence of long drinking windows, I am still going to be a little stingy on the drinking windows of the new releases, though. Wines on the fragile side have a way of showing well at the winery but not surviving travel well. The vertical written up below was presented at the winery in the Summer of 2009. Quinta de Soalheiro is a familiar name in the Vinho Verde region, having planted its first Alvarinho vines in 1974, from which in 1982 it produced the first Alvarinho wine in Melgaco, according to the winery. They are particularly known for their ageworthy Vinho Verde—to many, a fantastic premise. Yet, the winery, only somewhat in jest, jokes that they guarantee five years. Five years in a good vintage here isn’t even an issue. To be sure, other wineries in the region have made some wines that have aged quite well. It is not as if everything falls apart in 12 months. Yet, it is hard to match this vertical in terms of ageworthiness—it is hard even to talk about it without the listener raising an eyebrow.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2000 BRANCO was probably my slight favorite of the older wines presented. Lovely, in absolutely perfect shape, it is a wine that will shock many who have only a passing familiarity with the region. Gentle and bright, with all the parts in balance, it is continues to delight as it airs out and warms up. Drink now-2017. While I would certainly argue that the wines tended to show better as a group and the scores started to rise with a little less age, there cannot be any question that some of the older wines were a lot more than curiosities and simply shattered regional stereotypes. Despite evidence of long drinking windows, I am still going to be a little stingy on the drinking windows of the new releases, though. Wines on the fragile side have a way of showing well at the winery but not surviving travel well. The vertical written up below was presented at the winery in the Summer of 2009. Quinta de Soalheiro is a familiar name in the Vinho Verde region, having planted its first Alvarinho vines in 1974, from which in 1982 it produced the first Alvarinho wine in Melgaco, according to the winery. They are particularly known for their ageworthy Vinho Verde—to many, a fantastic premise. Yet, the winery, only somewhat in jest, jokes that they guarantee five years. Five years in a good vintage here isn’t even an issue. To be sure, other wineries in the region have made some wines that have aged quite well. It is not as if everything falls apart in 12 months. Yet, it is hard to match this vertical in terms of ageworthiness—it is hard even to talk about it without the listener raising an eyebrow.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044