The San Polo 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 8,000 bottles produced) is a textured wine with hearty fruit and touches of smoked meat and spice. At its core, the wine offers dark fruit, blackberry and ripe plum. The rich fruitiness of the wine cedes to campfire ash, mahogany and furniture wax. These results are sultry and even a bit flashy, with distant background tones of teriyaki and plum sauce. The wine is fermented in cylindrical oak fermenters and aged in oak for three years. We'll see this bottle hitting the market sometime after February 2021.

This is a darkly saturated Sangiovese with a very etched and precise fruit profile. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers immediate aromas of black cherry liqueur and pressed blackberry. Those berry notes are followed by spice, cinnamon and toasted coffee. This Riserva hits the palate with direct force and precision. It does not show the jammy or cooked notes commonly found in Sangiovese made in this hot vintage. Only 5,000 bottles were produced.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is an ambitious wine with a clear message that underlines a quality winemaking philosophy. The wine boasts a plump and rich personality that is flanked by a generous bouquet of dark fruit, spice, leather and tobacco. This is a standout Brunello from a classic vintage. That sense of fullness continues to the palate where the wine reveals especially firm tannins and extra fruit extraction. It will be fascinating to revisit this wine in ten years' time.

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva emerges from the glass with blackberries, blueberries, licorice and spices. The dark blue/black profile is unusual for Brunello but it works here. Layers of flavor build to a bold, extroverted finish supported by silky, ripe tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620