The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva impresses for its vibrant dark fruit, persistence and balance. Smoke, tar, licorice and French oak add further complexity, but this remains a fresh, perfumed Brunello that could use another few years in bottle. There is a clarity and definition to the wine I find particularly attractive. Today the French oak is just a touch pronounced but it should integrate over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620