Impenetrable and black in appearance, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Sondraia shows a touch of teriyaki sauce with barbecue spice and cherry cola. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Once the wine starts to warm in the glass, it delivers fruity tones of blackberry and ripe cherry with background renderings of leather and moist tobacco. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2022. Now celebrating its eleventh anniversary, the 70-hectare Poggio al Tesoro belongs to the Allegrini family (historic producers of Amarone in northern Italy) and was founded in partnership with American importer Leonardo Lo Cascio. Importer: Winebow Inc.; www.winebow.com

The 2009 Sondraia wraps around the palate with blackberries, smoke, licorice and new leather. Layers of flavor develop on the mid-palate, leading to the dark, brooding, totally explosive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620