The entry-level 2005 Sondraia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc aged in French oak. It is a generous, full-bodied wine with attractive dark fruit, leather, spices, roasted coffee beans and chocolate. Made in an ample, sweet style, it offers excellent balance and well-integrated tannins, but is also somewhat forward, which suggests it will offer its best drinking over the relative near term. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. New wineries in Maremma seem to be springing up continually, but Poggio al Tesoro is surely one of the most promising. Owned by importer Leonardo LoCascio and Veneto producer Marilisa Allegrini, Poggio al Tesoro has quickly established itself as a property to watch. This year I was once again impressed by the estate’s Dedicato a Walter. I am told a new Syrah vineyard is in the works as well.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Deep concentration and intensity set the tone, and the wine reveals layers of cherry fruit, blackberry, leather, spice, vanilla and liquid smoke. It’s a modern blockbuster with juicy fruit flavors, enormous succulence, a velvety mouthfeel and long lasting flavors.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 92