The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione is superb. Smoke, tar, wild cherries, underbrush and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from this expansive, textured Brunello. In 2006 the Piaggione shows that extra level of richness and depth that can be elusive in this bottling. The explosive, building finish leaves a lasting impression. Today the wine is young and not fully composed, but it will be sublime in another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione is a sensual wine endowed with layers of ripe fruit that come to life in the glass. There is a combination of richness and transparency that is alluring. A second bottle was quite a bit more firm, suggesting the wine will need a few more years in the cellar for some of the tannins to soften. This is one of the more imposing, deep wines of the vintage, and it will require patience. That said, I tasted three bottles of the 2005 Piaggione, and there appears to be a degree of bottle variation. Some bottles have been sweet, open and delicate, while others have been more stern. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. Proprietor Francesco Leanza makes wine loaded with personality. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, while winemaking is very much traditional in approach. The estate's Brunellos are made from the Piaggione and Teatro vineyards, both located between Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell-Abate.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione possesses striking depth, transparency and weightlessness as it opens up in the glass. This deeply-scented, layered Brunello offers superb pedigree and class in its ripe red cherries, wild herbs, tobacco, spices and licorice, with a powerful blast of melted road tar that provides the final exclamation point. A firm, structured wine, the profound 2004 Piaggione desperately needs some bottle age, but readers will have a hard time finding a wine with this much sheer class and pedigree. The Piaggione spent two years in medium-size French oak barrels and was neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. This is a wonderful effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Sweet forest fruit and earthiness - intriguiging. Balanced tannins and delicately extracted fruit. Nice, spicy finish.