The Salicutti 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Piaggione SV represents a tremendous winemaking effort that pits the extreme purity of Sangiovese against a very special single vineyard located on the upper rim of the small Salicutti property. This wine has only been produced four times. It was made in 2004, 2008, 2011 and 2013. This vintage consists of only 2,339 bottles made. This is a mid-weight Brunello in terms of overall texture, but you should not underestimate the power or the length of this beautiful creation. That balance between elegance and power is precisely where this wine shows its pedigree. Dark fruit nuances are folded into spice, tobacco and tangy balsam herb.

The initials SV (for single vineyard) have been added to the label of the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Piaggione SV. Salicutti has only made a Riserva three times in its history in 2004, 2008 and now in 2011. This wine takes the horns on the heat of the 2011 vintage and magically transforms all that extra sunshine energy into richness, texture and soft pleasure. The wine opens to a dark ruby color and presents a full and complete array of Sangiovese aromas ranging from dark cherry to spice to grilled herb. It reveals a very fine, silky texture with integrated tannins.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Piaggione is an understated, classy wine. Dried cherries, flowers and spices are framed by silky tannins in an elegant, layered style. Sweet tobacco, anise, fennel and herbs add complexity on the round, supple close. I am not sure the Riserva is worth the premium in 2004, but it is undoubtedly quite pretty. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Proprietor Francesco Leanza makes wine loaded with personality. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, while winemaking is very much traditional in approach. The estate's Brunellos are made from the Piaggione and Teatro vineyards, both located between Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell-Abate. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620