The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Piaggione is an understated, classy wine. Dried cherries, flowers and spices are framed by silky tannins in an elegant, layered style. Sweet tobacco, anise, fennel and herbs add complexity on the round, supple close. I am not sure the Riserva is worth the premium in 2004, but it is undoubtedly quite pretty. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Proprietor Francesco Leanza makes wine loaded with personality. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically, while winemaking is very much traditional in approach. The estate's Brunellos are made from the Piaggione and Teatro vineyards, both located between Montalcino and Castelnuovo dell-Abate. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620