The 2009 Capogatto is totally dialed in in this vintage. Grilled herbs, graphite, licorice, plums and black cherries are woven together in this subtle yet opulent wine. If the Capogatto was made in Bordeaux, it would cost at least twice as much. The 2009 is totally harmonious from start to finish. Layers of fruit build to the juicy, explosive finish. Capogatto is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. I can't wait to see how this ages. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Poggio Scalette wines aren't always easy to find, but they are well worth the effort. This is another strong set of new releases from father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. In particular, I was impressed with the Chianti Classico, which shows tons of character and personality at a very fair price.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Capogatto is also quite beautiful in this vintage. Capogatto is a blend of equal parts Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged in new French oak barrels. Jammy dark fruit, blueberries, cassis, violets and white flowers are some of the notes that flow from this mid-weight, Bordeaux inspired wine. This is a classy, understated wine that needs a few years to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2023. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Capogatto is a Bordeaux-inspired red that was previously only available at the famed Entoca Pinchiorri in Florence. Red cherries, mocha, minerals, grilled herbs and French oak emerge reluctantly from this inward, potent red. The Capogatto is one of the more austere, clenched Tuscan 2007s. If the tannins soften, the wine may ultimately merit a higher score, but that seems like a big question mark at this point. The finish is exceptionally beautiful, long and perfumed, though, which makes me hopeful the wine will eventually find its inner balance. Capogatto is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Vittorio and Jurij Fiore make some of the most compelling wines in Tuscany from their pristine vineyards in the hills above Greve. Their 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione is one of the great undiscovered treasures in the world of wine.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620