The 2007 Capogatto is a Bordeaux-inspired red that was previously only available at the famed Entoca Pinchiorri in Florence. Red cherries, mocha, minerals, grilled herbs and French oak emerge reluctantly from this inward, potent red. The Capogatto is one of the more austere, clenched Tuscan 2007s. If the tannins soften, the wine may ultimately merit a higher score, but that seems like a big question mark at this point. The finish is exceptionally beautiful, long and perfumed, though, which makes me hopeful the wine will eventually find its inner balance. Capogatto is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Vittorio and Jurij Fiore make some of the most compelling wines in Tuscany from their pristine vineyards in the hills above Greve. Their 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione is one of the great undiscovered treasures in the world of wine.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620