The 2006 Merlot Cantico is a gorgeous wine that reveals plenty of varietal nuance, but in a distinctly Tuscan way. Espresso, black cherries, plums and licorice are some of the many notes that jump from the glass in this fleshy, extroverted Tuscan Merlot. The Cantico is a gorgeous wine from Cappella. I don’t expect it will be terribly long-lived, but it is showing very well today. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Importer: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

Just what this estate can accomplish in a better vintage is shown by the 1999 Cantico, 100% Merlot and a knockout. Perfumed and elegant on the nose, with an endless series of oak spices – incense, sandalwood, vanilla and cloves – along with the ripe plum fruit, the flavors are of a decadent lushness and the caressing sensations those of liquid satin. Outstanding winemaking here from Luca D’Attoma.Long, focused, and impeccably balanced, this stunning Merlot should still be drinking well in 2015. No known American importer.