The 2007 Bertinga is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Petit Verdot. Black cherries, smoke, incense, tar, licorice and violets jump from the glass in this extroverted, full-bodied red. Layers of fruit build to a seamless finish supported by elegant, polished tannins. This is a great vintage for the Bertinga. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2006 Bertinga (Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot) is strikingly beautiful. Gorgeous, finely knit aromatics meld into expansive dark red fruit. This is one of the more open 2006 Tuscan reds I have come across lately, yet there is plenty of muscle and depth lurking in the background. All of the elements are balanced beautifully in this textured, utterly vivid Bertinga. The finish is long, seductive and sublime. This is a wonderful effort from the Sderci brothers. The only question that remains is why some of the other new releases are so far off the mark. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is an uncharacteristically mixed set of wines from Il Palazzino. The 2007 La Casina Girasole and 2007 Chianti Classico Argenina both revealed technical imperfections that precluded their being included in this report. The estate's higher-end wines fared better. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2005 Bertinga is Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot aged in French oak. This deeply-colored wine initially shows good intensity, but then drops off on the mid-palate. The balance is excellent, but frankly it’s tough to taste this wine after the estate’s exceptional 2006 Chiantis. New leather, tar and licorice notes add complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Il Palazzino is a great source for pure-breed Chiantis of notable personality. The Grosso Sanese in particular is one of the most unique wines being made in Tuscany. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119