The 2009 Etna Rosso N’Anticchia shows enormous elegance and pedigree with penetrating floral aromas of pressed violets and red rose. This is one of the most beautiful wines made on Etna today. It shows spectacular complexity with small hints of licorice, tobacco and dried mountain herb that rise from the glass in a measured and seductive manner. Those difficult to dominate Nerello Mascalese tannins feel silky, long and finely-texture in this gorgeous wine. Drink 2015-2028. In 2005, Paolo Caciorgna visited with Marco De Grazia on Etna and fell in love with a half-hectare vineyard planted to ancient pre-phylloxera vines in the Contrada Marchesa near Passopisciaro. After that initial purchase, he acquired more tiny plots of land. He started a tiny production (n’anticchia means “a tiny bit” in Sicilian dialect) of wine, going from 1,800 bottles in 2005 to 5,000 in 2009. N’Anticchia is his cru selection and the brand is dedicated to his father Pietro. Importer: North Berkeley Wine; www.northberkeleyimports.com

The 2008 Etna Rosso N’Anticchia is flat-out dazzling. It boasts serious depth and density while never abandoning its roots. Sweet dried herbs, tobacco, incense and licorice are woven throughout a core of expressive dark red fruit. Deceptively medium in body but with plenty of tannic cloud, the N’Anticchia is all about balance. The 2008 is distinctly pungent and savory on the finish, to the point of being almost overwhelming in its exoticism. There is a lot to like here, but readers will need to approach the 2008 with an open mind and palate. All of the qualities that make Etna such a special place are on full display here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. These are the finest wines I have ever tasted from Pietro Caciorgna, a small estate on the Etna I have been following since it was established. Winemaker Paolo Caciorgna is best known for his work in Tuscany, but he has done a magnificent job with these two new releases. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2007 Etna Rosso N’Anticchia is a beautiful, if somewhat quirky red. Sweet candied cherries, herbs, spices, cedar and anise are some of the nuances that flow from this mid-weight, gracious red. With time in the glass the wine comes together beautifully as all of the elements meld together with notable harmony. Silky tannins frame the impeccable finish. This is the finest vintage of the N’Anticchia I have tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880

The 2006 Etna Rosso N’Anticchia is an intriguing, eccentric bottling from the Etna and producer Pietro Caciorgna. This mid-weight red offers up dried cherries, mint, sweet herbs, earthiness and tobacco in a silky, ethereal style that recalls a traditionally made Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. Although the wine reveals some rough edges, it remains fascinating to contemplate. With a little more refinement this could very well be a stupendous wine. All of the ingredients certainly seem to be in place for that to happen. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880