Having tasted a myriad of under-ripened Alsatian Pinot Noirs, it was gratifying to try Sparr's 1999 Pinot Noir Prestige Eleve En Fut de Chene. (Only 700 cases were produced.) This light ruby-colored wine displays stone and red berry aromas. On the palate, loads of red fruits, including cherries, raspberries, and strawberries, can be found. its tannins are present, yet they are ripe and supple. Projected maturity: now-2003. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and BCI, Evergreen, CO (for Wyoming and Colorado); Tel. (303) 674-2251.