Penetrating aromas of liquid minerals and spices emanate from the glass of the 2000 Riesling Brand. A complex, silky-textured offering, it bursts on the palate, revealing copious quantities of spice, gingerbread, and mineral flavors. In addition, this lovely, excellent wine displays a long, flavorful finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2009. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

An herbal tea-scented wine, the 1999 Riesling Brand is an elegant, medium-bodied offering. A success for the 1999 vintage (which was not particularly kind to Riesling), it reveals a tangy character with excellent depth of mineral-laden white fruits. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. For years, The Wine Advocate has been clamoring for readers to take advantage of Alsace's fine values in white wine. It often appears that our words fall on deaf ears, yet Bernard Sparr, this firm's export director, informs me that his US sales have gone from 9,000 cases in 1998 to 25,000 in 2001. As other Alsatian estates also report significant growth in US sales, it would appear that our entreaties, and those of several colleagues, are being heard.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

The 1998 Riesling Brand, harvested on the 21st of October at 53 hectoliters per hectare, exhibits an expressive mineral, pear, and apple-scented nose. Light to medium-bodied, rich, and packed with quince, apples, and anise, this excellent wine has admirable depth of fruit and an impressively long finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and BCI, Evergreen, CO (for Wyoming and Colorado); Tel. (303) 674-2251.