The 1998 Riesling Brand, harvested on the 21st of October at 53 hectoliters per hectare, exhibits an expressive mineral, pear, and apple-scented nose. Light to medium-bodied, rich, and packed with quince, apples, and anise, this excellent wine has admirable depth of fruit and an impressively long finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and BCI, Evergreen, CO (for Wyoming and Colorado); Tel. (303) 674-2251.