Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy

班德里諾酒莊布魯奈羅紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：6466

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino opens to gorgeous floral tones that frame a darker core of dark fruit. The wine is extremely elegant, especially in the delicate way it puts forth its ethereal aromas of cola, licorice and grilled herb layer after layer. The palate delivers structure and good freshness. Drink: 2018-2028. Caroline Pobitzer and Jan Erbach run a tight ship at Pian dell’Orino. I had a chance to taste through barrels in their circular winery and it was here that I began to develop my happy expectations concerning the 2012 vintage. I also learned that this industrious couple who chose to live in Montalcino from distant lands (they fell in love here), had recently embarked on an ambitious mapping effort to delineate the four quadrants of the appellation according to soil and other factors. This is a project they started and funded on their own. I sincerely hope that the map they have produced leads to a greater dialogue on the need for recognized sub zones in Montalcino. Importer: Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com

One of the very best wines of the year, Pian dell’Orino’s 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous. Sweet dark cherries, cloves, menthol, tar and licorice are some of the many notes that are woven into fabric of superb elegance and finesse. All the elements are in perfect balance in this utterly harmonious Brunello. Deeply layered and spiced throughout, the 2008 is simply stunning. The 2008 isn’t as explosive as the very best vintages, but it is still a remarkable achievement for the year. Hints of orange peel and cloves add an exotic flair on the finish. This is a dazzling effort. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. It is amazing how far Pian dell’Orino has come in just a few years. Proprietors Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer own what is now one of the very top estates in Montalcino, hands down. Tasting the wines from barrel is an amazing experience equaled by visits in only a handful of top domaines in the world. In this cellar, Sangiovese boasts striking finesse and crystalline purity. Jan Erbach describes 2008 as a difficult year, with rain during the flowering and significant disease pressure. Conditions improved during September and into early October, when the last of the fruit came in. Yields are down 40% across the board. I still think the straight Brunello is the best wine at Pian dell’Orino. Going forward, Pian dell’Orino will no longer issue a Riserva, but when conditions allow will release single-vineyard designates. The fruit is so pure here, I am not sure that extended aging in oak is really necessary. Readers who haven’t discovered Pian dell’Orino are in for a treat. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is more than a worthy follow up to the spectacular 2006. Freshly cut flowers, violets, licorice, leather and tar meld into layers of dark fruit in a dazzling display of elegance and power. Silky tannins and expressive perfumed notes both add further refinement on the huge, explosive finish. The combination of ripeness of the year allied to a classic sense of structure is immensely appealing. This is one of the few 2007s I tasted that still needs time in the cellar, even though today it is flat-out stunning. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. It is hard to imagine how much Jan Erbach and Caroline Pobitzer have accomplished in just a few years. Erbach and Pobitzer embody the same adventurous, risk-taking ethos one rarely sees in Montalcino, but which is much more common among top-flight, artisan growers in Burgundy, Piedmont and Champagne. Pian dell’Orino is still a young estate, and the wines can sometimes be a bit inconsistent, especially the Riserva, which I don’t think is still fully formed from a conceptual standpoint. Still, I have little doubt the potential is there for Pian dell’Orino to be one of the top ten producers in Montalcino in a few years. The writing is on the wall. Hard work, passion and dedication always pay off. Jan Erbach describes 2007 as similar to 2003, with the exception of rain during July, which helped the vines recuperate a bit. The harvest was earlier than normal and took place from September 20 to October 1. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino emerges from the glass with warm, seductive black cherries, flowers, tobacco, minerals and underbrush. The interplay between the richness of the fruit and a classic sense of structure is totally spellbinding in this mysterious, dark Brunello. I love the element of sensuality here. The intensity of the fruit builds like waves towards the inevitable, luxurious, palate staining finish. This is simply a wine that won’t be denied. It is remarkable in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Pian dell’Orino is one of the most exciting, dynamic wineries in Montalcino. Proprietors Caroline Pobitzer and Jan Erbach have turned out two utterly fabulous wines that readers will not want to miss. The estate pursues biodynamic farming in the vineyards. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts, macerations are long and cask aging is the rule. The wines are bottled with no fining or filtration. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Superintense and fine, this elegant Brunello delivers its aromas in an immediate and determined manner. There’s cola, root beer, cassis, spice and pressed violet and the mouthfeel is crisp and well structured. ——M.L.(2/1/2012)—— 90