One of the most impressive white wines I’ve had this year. Its nose deals a different fragrance every time you go back to it: nut, focused yellow fruit, cola, then fresh baked pastry. It’s multilayered on the palate, and pretty tight, with apricots dressed up in cream around the wide, soft edges, and a nucleus of tight, tart citrus. Zesty, consistent and compelling. Imported by Pan Pacific Wines. ——D.T.(6/1/2006)—— 93