The 2004 Merlot “Grand Vintage” from barrel introduces exotic floral notes to the cherry and truffle of the “white label” verison, is even more strikingly creamy in texture and full of inner-mouth esters, and projects multiple layers of flavor from bright and high-toned to basso profundo. Tel. (631) 722-8800

The 2002 Merlot “Grand Vintage” follows the savory, earthy, fungal, meaty theme of the “white label” version. Indeed, the presence of star anise and exotic spices in the nose only emphasizes this Bordeaux blend’s Burgundian kinship. On the palate, this is plush and creamy, with a wealth of fruit but not of such obvious berry and pit fruit character. A long, savory finish preserves a wealth of canal, spice, and fungal flavors. Tel. (631) 722-8800

Wood plays a leading role in this wine, offering brown spice and pickle barrel aromas as well as vanilla, tobacco and spice flavors. In between there are aromas of glove leather and flavors of sweet red fruit that pick up intensity toward the finish. Medium-bodied, with solid tannins, the wine nevertheless comes across as bulky and without the acidity many Long Island wines have. ——M.D.(12/1/2006)—— 85