Patrick Lesec Rubis, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

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The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Rubis (85% destemmed Grenache that spends all its time in tank) exhibits delightful strawberry and kirsch fruit intermixed with notions of Provencal herbs, pepper, tobacco leaf and forest floor. This deep, medium to full-bodied, potentially outstanding Chateauneuf should drink well for 10-12 years. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Rubis is a blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 5% Syrah from 30- to 50-year-old vines. Three-quarters of the blend was aged in stainless steel tanks and the rest in old small oak barrels. Soft, ripe, and round, with sweet black raspberry and black cherry fruit interwoven with notions of pepper and roasted herbs, this full-bodied, succulent, rich, velvety-textured, long wine is ideal for drinking now and over the next 10-12 years. The stars in Patrick Lesec’s porfolio are the superb Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees he fashions, but there are also some stunning bargains for shrewd consumers. By the way, Lesec chose not to produce any Chateauneuf du Papes or Gigondas in 2008.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

Aged 20% in foudre and 80% in tank, the dark ruby/garnet-tinged 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Rubis offers copious quantities of roasted Provencal herbs, meat juices, lavender, licorice, and black cherries. Fleshy and soft, it is best consumed over the next decade. Patrick Lesec’s negociant operation is artisinal in nature, small, well-focused, and consistently reliable. The high point of the portfolio is unquestionably his Chateauneuf du Papes. Yet the low level wines are also worth checking out. Lesec’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes are all successful.Agent for the U.S. market, Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532

The least impressive but still excellent wine among these four Chateauneuf du Papes is the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Rubis. A surprisingly soft wine made from a blend of 75% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvedre, the wine has a deep ruby/purple color and a classic nose of incense, licorice, kirsch, pepper, and herbs. It is medium to full-bodied, soft for a 2005, and best drunk over the next decade. These are all noteworthy wines and generally sell for very realistic prices, so kudos to Patrick Lesec!I can’t speak highly enough of the job that Patrick Lesec does as a negociant, putting together interesting and high quality blends of Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes. He seems to have a talent for finding top quality sources for old vine Grenache, and his philosophy of bringing wines up is one of minimal intervention in a reductive environment with little exposure to oxygen. That’s important, because his wines often take a few years after bottling to strut their stuff. I have been very impressed with how the wines do perform in bottle, having purchased 1998s, 2000s, and 2001s, all of which seem to come into their own at about age four or five. I also noticed that his 2005s generally showed better out of bottle than they did last year prior to bottling.A Patrick Lesec Selection; Agent for the U.S. market: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532