Readers looking for a classic example of ripe, old vine Grenache should check out the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Rubis, which comes from totally destemmed Grenache grown in the hottest sector of Chateauneuf du Pape known as La Crau. A blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah aged 30% in tank, 30% in neutral wood foudres, and 40% in used barrels, it exhibits abundant quantities of exotic, thick, viscous kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with hints of blackberries, scorched earth, and melted licorice. Full-bodied, multidimensional, heady, lusty, and exuberant, it is both a hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. Enjoy it now or cellar it for 10-13 years. Importer: a Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ’59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218