The 2009 Costieres de Nimes (includes 50% Syrah in the blend) exhibits peppery, Provencal, herb, damp earth, iodine, seaweed and black currant notes. It is a complex, medium-weight red to drink over the next 1-3 years. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

Some miscellaneous cuvees from Patrick Lesec that are promising in 2005 include the regular cuvee of Costieres de Nimes, which is soft, ripe, fruity, and an ideal wine for bistros and brasseries. Patrick Lesec, the Frenchman who spent an important segment of his life in Santa Barbara, does a stunning job of accessing wines from old vineyards and putting together sensational blends in the southern Rhone. Everything is treated with respect for the regional typicity and character of the grapes. His strengths are the Chateauneuf du Papes, his Cotes du Rhones, as well as Vacqueyras and Gigondas. I haven’t reviewed everything that I’ve tasted, but just about anything with the Patrick Lesec label on it deserves a try as the prices are uncommonly fair for wines of such high quality. What I do find about them, since I purchase them myself, is that since they are made with minimal exposure to oxygen in a very reductive way, they often seem dormant, even dumb, when first released in the bottle. But, since they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, the full character does come forward, although it usually requires 2-4 years of bottle age, especially for the bigger wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. In any event, I consider this an unheralded source for top quality wines from a high-class negociant dedicated to artisinal winemaking.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

Perhaps the finest of the inexpensive offerings here is the 2003 Costieres de Nimes, a blend of 60% Syrah, 35% Grenache, and 5% Mourvedre. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by plenty of licorice-infused black cherry and currant fruit, fine ripeness, and a heady finish. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 993-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, and Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901