Perhaps the finest of the inexpensive offerings here is the 2003 Costieres de Nimes, a blend of 60% Syrah, 35% Grenache, and 5% Mourvedre. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by plenty of licorice-infused black cherry and currant fruit, fine ripeness, and a heady finish. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 993-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, and Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901