Lesec has done a marvelous job over the last decade in sourcing top quality fruit from this appellation, but his 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Pierres Dorees is somewhat disappointing. Composed of 85% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault aged in older barrels, it is a soft, elegant effort, but the tannins jump up and seem disproportionately high and astringent for the amount of fruit. I think it will turn out to be very good (hence the rating), but it needs time in the bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Pierres Dorees is composed of 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah that spends time in used, 1- to 4-year-old Burgundy barrels. Only 10% of the blend is aged in steel. It also includes a lot of stems during fermentation, but that is certainly not noticeable in either the aromas or flavors. Its dense purple color is followed by a sweet, floral-dominated nose of incense, soy, licorice, black fruits, meat juices, and bouquet garni. Deep, full-bodied and powerful as well as silky-textured, layered, and long, this beautiful wine should evolve for 10-15 years. The stars in Patrick Lesec’s porfolio are the superb Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees he fashions, but there are also some stunning bargains for shrewd consumers. By the way, Lesec chose not to produce any Chateauneuf du Papes or Gigondas in 2008.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

Even more impressive than the Rubis is the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Pierres Dorees. Aged in old small barrels (75%) and tank (25%), it is a blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Mourvedre. A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by aromas of fresh mushrooms, blackberries, cherries, plums, and figs. Full-bodied and rich with moderately high tannins, it is a serious, classic, old style Chateauneuf du Pape that requires 2-3 years of cellaring; it should keep for two decades.Patrick Lesec’s negociant operation is artisinal in nature, small, well-focused, and consistently reliable. The high point of the portfolio is unquestionably his Chateauneuf du Papes. Yet the low level wines are also worth checking out. Lesec’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes are all successful.Agent for the U.S. market, Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532