Lesec has done a marvelous job over the last decade in sourcing top quality fruit from this appellation, but his 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Pierres Dorees is somewhat disappointing. Composed of 85% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Cinsault aged in older barrels, it is a soft, elegant effort, but the tannins jump up and seem disproportionately high and astringent for the amount of fruit. I think it will turn out to be very good (hence the rating), but it needs time in the bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.