Showing much more tannin and structure than it did out of barrel, Lesec's 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Bargeton hints at leather and cedar on the nose, then adds notes of black cherries, plums and some Campari-like spice. Full-bodied and tannic, with a rich, velvety finish, it may improve with short-term cellaring.

Sourced mainly from an old-vine (mainly Grenache) parcel in the Cristia lieu-dit (sandy soils), Lesec's 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Bargeton was made using all whole clusters. Delicate notes of roses, garrigue, cherries and subtle dried spices mingle easily on the nose of this full-bodied but delicate, filigreed wine. It's hugely complex and full flavored, without any excess weight or richness. It should be a beauty.

The super-star of the Chateauneuf du Papes is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Bargeton. Made from 80% tank-aged Grenache (nearly 100-year-old vines) and the rest barrel-aged Syrah and Mourvedre, this cuvee comes from the famed Galets Roules of the renowned sector of Chateauneuf du Pape called La Crau. A dense plum/purple color precedes notes of roasted herbs, licorice, smoked duck, soy, blackberries, cassis, and plums. Fabulously pure fruit, a full, layered texture, and a finish displaying exceptional intensity, purity, and length (50 seconds) suggests this superb Chateauneuf du Pape may be the finest effort Patrick Lesec has yet fashioned. It should drink well for 12-14 years.The stars in Patrick Lesec’s porfolio are the superb Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees he fashions, but there are also some stunning bargains for shrewd consumers. By the way, Lesec chose not to produce any Chateauneuf du Papes or Gigondas in 2008.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.