The deep plum/ruby-tinged 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Bargeton (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre) was aged in 1- to 3-year-old small barrels. The most structured, dense, and tannic of these Chateauneufs, it begs for 2-4 years of bottle age. Aromas of charcoal, roasted meats, grilled Provencal herbs, black currants, and cherries are followed by a deep, chewy, thick, well-structured, muscular wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. Patrick Lesec’s negociant operation is artisinal in nature, small, well-focused, and consistently reliable. The high point of the portfolio is unquestionably his Chateauneuf du Papes. Yet the low level wines are also worth checking out. Lesec’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes are all successful.Agent for the U.S. market, Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532