The 2004 Gigondas l’Estale is a minor effort with medium body, good fruit, but not much depth or intensity. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

A wine that under-performed from bottle is the 2003 Gigondas l’Estale. A blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah, it offers attractive aromas of blueberries and cassis, medium to full body, and a tannic, lean, hard tough finish. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029,Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048

The 2001 Gigondas Cuvee l’Estale, a tank-fermented and aged blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah, is a deep ruby-colored, fruit-driven, medium to full-bodied, supple-textured effort revealing abundant quantities of sweet blueberry and cassis fruit intermixed with floral and crushed stone components. Drink it over the next decade. Importer: a Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ’59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218