Extremely ripe and concentrated but arguably a bit too massive for its own good. That said, we love the wine’s tobacco, cassis and inky qualities, but worry a little about the lemony oak character and overall potency. Deep as midnight in terms of flavors, with black fruits galore setting up a richly packed, ultraripe finish. New World to the max but very tasty and rich.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 91