Bright medium ruby. Dark berries, licorice and spicy oak on the nose. Tactile and pliant but nicely vinous, with sweet dark berry flavors complicated by cocoa powder, licorice and sexy oak. Has the silky middle palate to support its wood element.

Extremely ripe and concentrated but arguably a bit too massive for its own good. That said, we love the wine’s tobacco, cassis and inky qualities, but worry a little about the lemony oak character and overall potency. Deep as midnight in terms of flavors, with black fruits galore setting up a richly packed, ultraripe finish. New World to the max but very tasty and rich.——M.S.(8/1/2010)—— 91