The 2008 Greco from Ocone reveals unusual complexity in its suggestions of honeyed apricots, ripe, succulent peaches, smoke and minerals. This is a decidedly rich Greco loaded with character and personality. Faint notes of petrol that recall Riesling appear on the finish, hinting at the direction the wine is likely to take over the coming years. The Greco was made from organically farmed vineyards in the Sannio district and aged in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

This is a deeply golden and saturated Greco that offers the structure and consistency to pair with white meat, pasta or shellfish. It offers subtle flavors of butterscotch and dried apricot as well. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 84

Ocone’s organic Greco offers a sweet-smelling, floral nose with aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine and citrus blossom. You can taste some of its natural mineral nuances behind its pulpy peach tones.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 86

The wine lacks huge intensity but it does deliver subdued aromas of peach, pear, mineral and candied fruit. It is light and lean in structure but has powerful and pleasantly fruity flavors.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 85

Fleshy aromas of honey and butterscotch. The plump mouthfeel cuddles melon and orange, while the finish is dry, heavy and loaded with extract. A touch clumsy, but with pop. ——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 85