This is just about perfect Semillon— the gorgeous fruit has more flesh and breadth with flavors suggesting ripe fig, melon and citrus. The use of oak is judicious and thoughtful; it adds grace notes without dominating. You can’t help but wonder why this grape remains such a novelty (except, ironically, at Novelty Hill!). It’s seductive, delicious and unique.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 92