Voluptuous and elegant but still true to the rustic nature of Pinotage, this is a true expression of South African terroir. Sweet black currant, licorice and cool-climate-derived mint mingled with smoke and spice create dimension and depth. The finish is firm and a touch edgy—again, a Pinotage characteristic. ——S.K.(7/1/2007)—— 88

There’s a ripe core of fruit under this wine’s massive veneer of animal funkiness, but it’s hard to find. Complex tart red berry, vanilla and licorice notes on the nose are quickly buried. A funky metallic-earthiness—too much for most noses and palates— takes over, and that’s the whole story here. ——M.M.(12/15/2004)—— 81