Long-awaited, late-bottled, and now at last released, the Nikolaihof 2004 Riesling Steiner Hund Reserve is scented with iris, musk, lemon zest, red currant, and herbs. Youthfully sappy and vivacious, the only evidence of its stay in cask being an added measure of subtly spicy, woodsy complexity, this pours forth saline, stony, floral, and tart fruit like a torrential force of nature and leaves the tongue and gums quivering with a sense of spice, citrus zest, herbal resin, and mineral deposits for which words like -tactile- and -tenacious- are insufficient. Guard as much of this as you can and don't drink the last of it for at least 12-15 years. Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A wonderfully perfumed wine, the floral Riesling character just flying out of the glass. Those perfumes start a wine that has a tight, intense mineral character given a fine edge from acidity. But there are also secondary flavors of dried fruits, spices, violets. The finish is dry, crisp, delicious.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 94