Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Riesling vom Stein Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The 2007 Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein had an almost impossible act to follow after its riveting vintage predecessor, but has gone in an entirely different stylistic direction. Lemony brightness, along with scents and flavors of sage, tangerine zest, and blackcurrant make this one of those 2007s that is slightly reminiscent of Sauvignon or Muscat. Snappy and tart, its energetic current of fresh fruit makes for an invigorating, lip smacking tonic that should work its effect over at least a 4-5 year period. Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Nikolaihof’s 2004 Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein was the only representative of this year’s Rieslings that I had the opportunity to taste. This Federspiel offers Sauvignon-like aromas of black currant and mint not uncommon in the Austrian Rieslings of this vintage. The palate expresses a medicinal sort of bitter-sweet herbal essence imbedded in a juicy, luscious matrix of pit fruits and citrus. The mouth is thoroughly suffused with salts, wet stone, chalk dust, and all other manner of ineffable expressions of minerality. The finish returns, however, both to the Sauvignon-like notes of the aroma and to a certain sense of tart, malic hardness that wants to resolve itself. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300