The Nikolaihof's 2007 Neuburger once again demonstrates the wiles (and food-friendliness) of this underappreciated traditional grape variety. Hints of violets and a creamy, nutty, subtly saline and savory palate lead to a gently soothing finish. Neutral in comparison with a Gruner Veltliner or Riesling, yes, I suppose it is, but when Neuburger is in hands like these - not to mention in countless culinary contexts - its demure charms bring a smile and a smack to the lips. Nikolaus Saahs followed up his amazing 2006 collection with more than suitable successors (although the top Rieslings of 2007 - following usual Nikolaihof practice - will only be unveiled this year or next, and could not yet be reviewed). As is frequently the case at this passionately biodynamic address, the Saahs family is happy to point out that they finished harvesting fully ripe fruit - early October - before some area growers had probably even begun.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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